Monday, June 9, 2008

Asakusa - Sanja Matsuri Festival






The meal at Tsukiji Fish Market gave us incredible energy! I'm not kidding, it was like Popeye eating a can of spinach! We took the subway north to Asakusa, a neighborhood of Tokyo with edo-era style. The Senso-ji temple is located there, popularly known as Asakusa Kannon, Tokyo's most sacred and spectacular temple. I knew that a special festival, the Sanja-Matsuri would be going on that weekend and I hoped we could catch a glimpse of it. Our luck was amazing - we ended up right in the middle of it! The aim of the Matsuri festival is to preserve the goodwill of the deities. It consists of purifications, offerings, and a procession in which the deity is invoked at the shrine and carried in a portable shrine to a temporary dwelling and then returned to the original location. The portable shrine isn't really that portable though. Its a huge gilded and ornately decorated piece which looks extremely heavy, hoisted up by wooden planks upon the shoulders of about 20 people who chant and raise the shrine up and down vigorously as they march through the crowds of thousands that have gathered in the streets. We got to be right in the middle of those crowds as about a dozen shrines were carried by us out of the Kaminarimon Gate at the entrance to the Temple grounds. After watching the ceremony for a while, we made our way out of the crowds to wander down the streets toward the Main Hall where worshipers were paying their respects by lighting candles and throwing coins. There were food stalls set up on every street selling all sorts of tasty treats like stir fry noodles, fried things on a stick and ice cream.

Serious Sushi




On Friday we arrived in Tokyo!!! We checked into our hotel which was in an awesome location near the Imperial Palace and directly across from the Hanzomon subway stop. That night, we met up with a friend of Brian's from ASU and her international group of friends for dinner and dancing in Roppongi. Roppongi is the music and club center of Tokyo and where you'll find the most foreigners. It was a fun night and while we were only out till 2am (the others stayed till dawn), we'd planned to go to the Tsukiji Fish Market the next morning at 6am for a sushi breakfast. Yeah right. We ended up going at 11am which meant that we missed all the action (auctioning of the morning's catch) but we were able to get in line for lunch at one of the dozen fresh-as-you-can-get sushi restaurants. Some lines were several hours long. We found a place where we waited outside for only 45 minutes. The lines are so long for each restaurant because of high demand but also because each restaurant is only about 8ft by 14ft. Big enough for a sushi bar and seats for roughly 12 customers. It was so tight that when I sat down I had to put my legs to the side because there wasn't enough room for them between my stool and the bar and space for the waiter to get by behind me. It was the most intimidating meal I've ever had. The chef was about three feet in front of me, with a stern expression that meant I better like and finish the masterpiece he'd prepared because anything less would be dishonorable. Fortunately it was delicious! But an enormous portion which I could not finish. I tried, but I contemplated the consequence - not being able to keep it down and having to leave the sushi bar running. Every delectable piece of Nigiri was buttery, perfectly fresh, beautifully vibrant and expertly presented! Sushi heaven! We didn't take any photos inside but I did snap a shot of the menu board ( I had selection C, Brian had D).

Lock your love and through away the key



We said goodbye to Hadabuji and Jangheung on Wednesday morning to take the KTX train back to Seoul. That night in Seoul, we met up with Brian's cousin Kyun and his wife. We had a delicious dinner at a nice French/Italian restaurant and then we took a taxi and a cable car up the steep mountain which overlooks the entire city. Perched on top of the mountain is a very tall tower called, what else, Seoul Tower (you can see a view of the Tower from a distance in the picture taken from our hotel room in the first Korea/Japan trip post). Here are views from the deck up there. There is a chain-link fence along the edge of the viewing deck that is adorned with thousands of locks. The tradition is to bring a lock representing your everlasting love, write the names of you and your loved one on the lock, attach it to the fence, lock it, and then throw the key over the edge. How romantic! Unfortunately we didn't bring a lock.

Zen Buddhist Temple



On the last full day in Jangheung, we visited a nearby Zen Buddhist temple (called Borim Temple). It was built in the year 759. The temple consists of about 7 buildings, the main one is in this photo. Tragically, all but two of the buildings were burned during the Korean war but all have since been rebuilt. The lanterns in the photo were part of a Buddhist holiday (Buddha's birthday) which had taken place the day before. Hadabuji made a donation and prayer for his family's health and good fortune.

A walk with Misang



On Tuesday morning we woke up to an ethereal fog. Brian took this picture of the valley from Hadabuji's courtyard just after dawn. The blue roof belongs to the little guest cottage where we stayed. Later, we took a walk with Misang, Hadabuji's dog. He's a Jindo. On the way back to the house it started to drizzle which turned into a heavy downpour. It felt so so good since it hadn't rained for several months in Arizona.

Green Tea Farm



On Monday we went to Boseong where there are many green tea farms. We got some yummy green tea icecream and then walked along the paths between the rows of green tea bushes.

Seaside



The restaurant with the fish tanks outside was located in this harbor. The bridge in the other photo was the most beautiful brilliant orange.